Natalia Brilli

leather? leather!

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designer jewelry and accessories.
Leather? Leather!

SM: How would you describe your universe?

Natalia Brilli
: A mix of two cultures as I'm belgium-Italian.
The "surrealist" and "ghostly" spirit of the  North associated to a racy elegance and esthetic heritage from the South. 

SM : What do you consider to be the symbolism of jewelry in  society?
NB : It's not a question that I usually ponder when I work on my collections but I would say that it depends on the piece.
If it's a family piece since the beginning of time, the jewelry carries within a symbolism where emotions, power and history are mixed.
Source of joy or conflicts, he can fuel fiery passions when passed on.
If it's a creator or fashion piece the symbolism is different.
The jewelry will be a recognition of self and individuality, or the belonging to a group, or simply the reflection of a craft, the creator's.

SM : How come aimal themes are often found in your creations?
NB :
It’s not only the beauty of the animal that fascinates me but the unconscious remains of magical mentality linked to the “sacred animal”. As a child, I was – and still am - fascinated by animal tales and Ancient Greek mythology where abound some fabulous animals.
I also have a passion for animalistic anthropomorphism; I always compare people who surround me to animals… Hopefully I don’t look like my English Bulldog !

SM : Is everything about vanity?
NB :
Oh yeay..No comments.

SM : AS a first user of animal skin, are you concerned by animal preservation or species preservation?
NB : It may seem paradoxal but yes I am concerned with animal protection and species conservation. I only use animal raised leather and it's strictly prohibited to use partly extinct animals. However I find some creators who claim to use only 100%natural tanned leather very hypocritical. It's a lie, the tanning might be natural but then they add protections and colors that are 100% chimical. The worst are the one who claim to refuse animal leather and use synthetic leathers that are a thousand times more polluting in their fabrication and their degradation.

SM : What do you have left to discover in leather?
NB :
A prevert like inventory...

SM : Do you use your experience as a stage director in today's creations?
NB : I was a stage director for ten years and I use it a lot in my work, as staging is a multiple functions job. It reaches to all applied arts. Therefore there's a rather epic notion in all my work, all my collections tell a story, a myth, a legend. Each object or jewel has en esthethic dimension in my mind, but also a symbolism like in theatre, even if only a fashion accessory.

SM : Is there a solidarity in the "Belgium fashion community " in France?
NB :
Not really, I'd even say that it's worst in Belgium. first there's the language barrier between the flemish and the Wallons, the the barrier of "family attached to a creator" or a school (La Cambre and Anvers Academy)
I often found a closed door because I was from the South of Belgium (Anvers).
Only since I live in France have I started to collaborate with Flemish creators...

SM : What are your musical influences?
NB : I listen to a lot of music, the choice is vast : classical, Opra, film music, everything between 63 and 68. ( I love an on line radion called "behond the beat generation " mostly New Wave and everything that was underground in the 80's, mainly coming from Berlin..(lol). Especially since I'm 14 years old I'm a fan of Nick Cave..Nick I love you!!(lol)

SM : Is it difficult to avoid the  leather cliche, with its strong background?
NB :
Not really, for me it's the essence of my work, to avoid the SM or punk image. Some customers or journalist can't help themselves and have to turn it black or put a gothic label on it...(lol).. But at the end what's important is that everyone finds its own...

SM : What fascinates you ?
NB :
That my life and business partner of 12 years Lionel still stands by me in this journey where I dragged him..He manages all the oops....  

Interview Sabine Morandini


Directed by Jean François Carly


113 rue vieille du temple
75003 Paris