From Street to Fashion
Punk movement and Manga universe have been Oscar Marquez’s first sources of inspiration.
Why did he choose the most famous doll of all?(Fur-clad Barbie dolls) : “It’s one of the only identically-reproduced toys: the perfect medium to maul or mistreat.”
Why black and white illustrations ? - “It’s not intentional; don’t look for any hidden message. It just provides for graphic saturation.” - are both rough and light. They represent masked creatures wearing ruffles, collarettes, corsets, and heavy chatelaines round their hips. “In the Middle Ages, the more powerful a woman was, the more keys she was wearing… a touch of fetishism no doubt. I try to turn this influence into energy. It allows me to project ideas, to be creative.”
What are your favourite pieces? Collages: “The recycling of magazines raw material allows me to work along the same lines as Mister Smith who, for lack of means, used existing prints. It’s interesting as it makes up with a spontaneous movement, visual hacking.”
Can you explain your creative vision of fashion ? “Somewhat of a fantasy dating back to the 80’s. Here I mean Grace Jones, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Vivienne Westwood…”
What would be the ideal follow-up to your collaboration as an illustrator for Saint-Laurent? “Alexander McQueen.”
OSCAR Y ASTIZ
1977: Born on the 10th of May, at Vitoria in Spain. Oscar y Astiz is raised by his grand mother, Purification Astiz, at the famous neogothic palace 'Alava Esquivel'.
1984: Purification Astiz is summoned by the priest in charge of the Church of San Pedro. Indeed, they confessed to be disarmed and worried about the peculiar behaviour of Oscar y Astiz due to the Catholic teaching he was receiving.
1986: Is diagnosed with meningitis and put in quarantine. This experience, like he declares afterwards, will be determining in the structure and future expression of his psyche.
1987: Leave Spain for France with his mother and his step dad, because of many conflicts and family tensions which he is directly exposed to.
1996: After a scientific background although fascinated by psychology and anthropology, he decides to put his studies on hold.
2001: Starts to train as a designer. Meets Claire J. Sanson who becomes his muse and wife seven years later.
2002: Is noticed by John Galliano’s Design Director who takes care of his training.
2003-2004: First collective exhibition at the Dutch Institute in Paris. Will create, the same year, a series of illustrations for the brand Paco Rabanne and the group Puig.
2005: Individual exhibition at the Peter’s Friends/ Carré V.’s Gallery at the Palais Royal in Paris. From this date, an international and specialize press will be interested in the Spanish artist’s creation. Nevertheless, Oscar y Astiz lacks of conviction in his creation at the time and thinks about leaving the luxury, fashion world and more generally the universe of art related to design.
2006: Discovers the archetype’s concept of Carl Gustav Jung. Develops, the same year, a first study of archetypes as creators of images and symbols, and the link that we can establish between this materiel and the concept of klecksography studied in particular by the swiss psychiatrist Herman Rorschach. Work as an illustrator for Yves Saint Laurent’s studio. Collective exhibition, organized by the goup “Untitled” in Barcelona and in Berlin.
2007: Illustrator for Barbara Bui’s studio. Now he knows that his intention to leave the fashion world is certitude. Individual exhibition at the Arludik’s Gallery at l’île Saint Louis in Paris.
2008: Resumes and develops his study about the link he is discovering between Carl Gustav Jung’s archetypes and the concept of klecksographies. He will then rely on his conclusion to create his own “archetypes’ images”. First series of 17 boards, displayed in his “cabinet” and shown to a small circle of collecto
David & Oscar