Gen11. Angelic dreams
Generation 11 on Fashion Institute Arnhem exposed during Paris Fashion Week. They open their bedroom secrets.
1 • If you were to draw your own portrait and your works?
2 • What fascinates you ?
3 • What would you fancy tomorrow ?
4 • Can you give 3 words for describe Angelique Westerhof founder of the Fashion Institute Arnhem ?
Pauline van Dongen
1 • My work focuses on the surface. I use fabric as a starting point. By creating new structures with it or developing new techniques to change its appearance I give it my personal touch and feeling. Besides that I try to give it more dept and a new dimension by moulding it into clean shapes with a fresh and modern look. I am much more interested in that than decoration. Tactility, texture and no-frills modernity are the essence of my work.
2 • I am fascinated by the relation between people and their surroundings; the human body and the the architectural environment within which it evolves. Artists like Anish Kapoor, Anthony Gormley, Olafur Eliasson, are a big inspiration as well as modern architecture and technology.
3 • I would like to have all the means to start my own fashion label!
4 • Ambitious Caring, Radiant and wonderful
Franciscus van dermeer
1 • I am melodic and melancholic, i am about feeling both smart and confused, hopelessly romantic and wary of love. about bipolar poetics with a sense of emotional danger, or even emotion through the lack of emotion. about memory and repression. what i design is born during empty days where i walk along the verges of my almost non-existant emotional landscape. my work is a mixture of the minimalism of the bottled up and the rigid outrage from an inevitable catharsis.
2 • I am fascinated by my own sense ow remembering: what is important enough to be qualified as unforgettable and what is not?
3 • it's a horrible answer but i'd fancy some money, so it would be easier to do what my feelings and ambitions tell me to do.
4 • focussed, peaceful and poise
1 • In my work I'm searching for new ways to define garments, in search of a new kind of elegance. A new aesthetic for female dressing. With a fresh view towards the body, I try to create silhouettes, by moulding materials around the mannequin, with as little adjustments as possible I create wearable garments. For my last collection; 'In a collusion of angles', two opposites are collaborating in a new found structure. I was searching for a way to integrate structures in my work, I used the geometric forms of the Tangram puzzle. In either fluent or stiff form, shapes are created around the body. Fluent lines are interrupted or disturbed by angles. They make parts of the garments protrude from the body, creating unexpected shapes for a renewed elegance. The body is loosely wrapped in large geometric forms. The materials became a collision of fabrics created by nature, for example; felt wool, silks, leathers, and the artificial structured materials; such as transparent polyester and polished surfaces. (The shoes for the collection have been developed with a wooden structure inspired by the Kapla principle in collaboration with Miriam van Weeghel. The rigid heel structure forms an aligned collusion with the fluent lines formed in the garments. )
2 • In my work I'm mostly inspired by structures and architecture but also by the movement of the body itself. The way we use our body and way of dressing to communicate. I try to break down existing aesthetics of femininity.
3 • I would love to have my own label, with customers that are dedicated to the work I make, and cherish the garments forever even with all the flaws that come in with the decay of the garment.
4 • Sweet, dedicated, the best
1 • When the man becomes the object of my curious view, sensuality and seduction get a different meaning. The conventional power relationships between men and women are being disturbed and there comes a new man into being, one that seduces by adorning himself with his vulnerability. The man wears a suit and seems fully dressed, but when walking the slits in the suit become visible and you catch a glimps of his nude body. This is the play / game that inspires me: the covering and uncovering, the see trues and slits in classic pieces of clothing.
2 • My new fascination is in knitwear. After a few lessons I bought my own machine and started to experiment with it. My goal with my knitwear pieces is to go far beyond the men's cardigan and sweater. The pieces are about seduction and adronment.
3 • I would love to work for a menswear label that creates interesting, new and inspiring collections for men.
4 • She is the person that can motivate me the best! Sweat and caring and with the biggest hard for Fashion in the Netherlands!
1 • If I was to draw my own portrait and works I think it would be on an A0 canvas, not that I want a big picture of myself just because that size allows you to show a lot of expression in the movement that you make your lines. They would be a very sketchy drawings done with mixed media.
2 • A lot of things fascinate me, at the moment its an octopus,the fact that they have no internal or external skeleton, allowing them to squeeze through tight places. And also that octopuses are highly intelligent, probably the most intelligent of all invertebrates.
3 • I would fancy a picnic in the park ...............
4 • Loyal, encouraging, passionate.
1 • If I had to describe myself and my work within words, they would be as following:
complex ? strict ? architectural
egocentric . emotional ? sarcastic
daily references . serious dreaming
escape ? surreal ? transformation
2 • Everyday experiences, its simplicity and complexity.
3 • Working for an designer which I admire and hopefully I will be able to maintain my own label with a few garments a season aside.
4 • Positive, Supportive, Spiritual
1 • Where the rebel crouched in a timid poet,
The poet's character is rebelliously disordered.Fashion for me is a feeling, it is a moment, a moment in time. I like to inspire my collections on moments of art, poetry or music... For instance my 'sporen van een schaduw' collection, it was inspired on a poem of Fernando Pessoa. The materials I love to work with are pure and must feel like a second skin. Leather and silks are often the key fabrics.
2 • For my last collection it was the Chelsea Hotel New York: ‘Hobohemian Heaven’ Countless disappeared in the mist of time,
Others were immortalised on to the façade.
‘Hobohemian Heaven’ A collection inspired by The Chelsea Hotel New York.
Where the rebel crouched by a creation of a shoulder pleat,
the poet’s character is disordered by a rebelliously forward forced hip.
Curtains vigorously hauled from their rods, mostly made of silks, give the collection a poetic touch.
The specific pleat of the curtain is carried by the gems of the collection, a curtainhook galvenised in gold.
‘Hobohemian Heaven’, the roof over poetry and rebellion.
3 • To wake up, make a nice cup of coffee and cycle to my own fashion house, I wish this is real life tomorrow.
4 • Inspiring, tres chique, super dedicated.
Angelique Westerhof, co-founder of the Fashion Institute Arnhem and the Dutch Fashion Foundation. Pauline Van Dongen, Franciscus Van Der Meer, Janneke Verhoeven, Jiska Van Rossum, Rebecca Ward, Nick Rosenboom, Oda Pausma.
Fashion Institute Arnhem, Generation 11
Black&White © Sanne Peper
Color © Peter Stigter
Report Sabine Morandini
Fashion Institute Arnhem, Generation 11
7, rue Froissart 75003 Paris
MORPHOGENESIS Pauline Van Dongen
PASSER-BY REMEMBER Franciscus Van Der Meer
HOBOHEMIAN HEAVEN Oda Pausma
THE SAD PARADE Nick Rosenboom
PHYSIOGNOMY Rebecca Ward
ADORNED IN ELEGANCE Jiska Van Rossum
A COLLUSION OF ANGLES Janneke Verhoeven
SYNDROME DI STENDHAL Josine Visser