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FASHION WEEK
Haute Couture Winter 2012-13
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ART AND MATTER
An invitation to the «brilliant reflection», in the literal and figurative sense, by these designer.

IRIS VAN HERPEN The art of material
Iris Van Herpen creates mind-blowing women-sculptures.
As a goldsmith she designs silhouettes that are carved - chiseled - in metal, hand-blown glass.
Stained glass fineries for these sci-fi heroins, a dream soundtrack on the theme of the films MÉTROPOLIS and BLADE RUNNER.
Sublime and incredible craftsmanship of the material which captures light in the same way the works of PIERRE SOULAGES do with his "OUTRENOIR" concept.

FRANCK SORBIER The skill and the style to unwind your bobbins of thread, weaving a backdrop as in a waking dream.
Franck Sorbier shifts his vision of the world on a giant screen, imposing a motionless woman clad in a princess gown.
In black and white, a portrait multiplied in a TV screen is « given » to be seen, watcher or watched?
He displays all the facets of his talent in his collection, through the prism of accumulations (in a nod to ARMAN « the shower of objects by image ») or in the style of DAN FLAVIN – an electric fairy’s gown of vibrant multicolored neons – against the backdrop of a a street with the shadows of streetlamps from another epoch, epic.
The alternations between the static background and the moving shape of the princess gown contrast and answer each other, transformed into fireflies, birds, butterflies….
The visual magic of these dream dresses, fluttered by the draft of an artistic current, is a real performance ; the questioning of a different way to see the fashion world, both light and deep, with a surrealist reference to RENÉ MAGRITTE and his «CASTLE OF THE PYRENEES» on a rock levitating in the sky, and a more pedestrian, suspended « chandelier » dress.

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
the art of textile that rolls and unravels.
An exercise in brilliance and purity, for the successful marriage of white and its alliance with gold.
Graphic suits with clever cutouts and their pretty pleats of organ pipes with a free flow of gold, chains, sequins and lace underlining details with precious and luminous touches.

JAN TAMINIAU the skill and style of materials
A visual enchantment of wandering bubble-women attired in crimson frills, of generously curvaceous divas swaying on vertigo heels paved with diamonds.
The tactile and sensual use of materials, where skin appears to be inlaid with lace made from gold, silver and dévoré velvet.
Magnificent and gourmet union of precious shades of emerald, ruby, sapphire.
A very beautiful open invitation to dreams.

YIQING YIN
the body of matter
Maelstroms of silks in mineral shades, that seem to embrace the body and become one with the skin, or adopt the shapes of an insectivore form of nature. Fluid dresses that bloom into flower-women in the sensual shaded tones of GEORGIA O' KEEFFE.

CLARISSE HIERAIX
the skill and style of playing with materials.
Elegance and style combined in feminine form, the real Parisian chic.
Suits with sculpted spheres, perfect cuts, refined and offbeat details.
Sublime craftsmanship on the rendering of monochrome colour using the effects and textures of fabrics.

JULIEN FOURNI
É en enchanting bestiary in bright citrus colours,
a delightful feast of exotic freshness. The body is adorned with select pieces of cutouts, scintillating or transparent colour-blocking, a clever game of light-catching materials.

SERKAN CURA
A show in the colours of a bird of Paradise, corseted in satin, adorned with feathers and furs but without a bustle !

ON AURA TOUT VU
Revisits fairy tales, a fashion show of princesses with crowned heads from foreign lands, a queenly bearing and details with a certain piquant and « so British » humour.
Oh my dog !



Pascale Gilardo - translator Delphine Dalquié
PHOTOS

Show Serkan Cura
Winter 2012



VIDEO

Haute Couture Winter 2012-13